Timing set Installation Prep

Here's what I'm looking at for mine. This is a completely different make and model, but the concept is the same.

I was confused at first (about the orientation of the oil slinger) because I didn't take enough pictures.

Here is a shot from someone's build. I will have to check the slinger's fit against the harmonic balancer (technically a vibration dampener).

Here's one from another site:

Update: It does indeed fit with the brim of the hat facing out. I couldn't find anything specific online about the 250, but it faces out on the 200, and it fits the harmonic balancer perfectly like this, so I'm going with it.

Here you can see the confirmation that this is the right bolt and washer. The proof is written in the gunk pattern on the washer and the cam gear:

Perfect fit:

Cam and crank bolts with washers, cleaned and ready:

I wasn't able to run these through a die since I didn't have dies for these sizes. I cleaned them well and oiled them as best I could. Things go together so much better this way. I've read that you cannot get a correct torque if the threads are dry or dirty, and I think it's true.



 I cleaned up the oil slinger and old crank gear. I used the old crank gear to rotate the crank while I was lining up the timing to install the set.

Oil Pan Prep 3

Phone has an issue. Forgive the blurry pics.

Someone somewhere said to flatten any raised bits on the pan with a hammer and dolly. So I did that:

Installed the balancer cover seal and coated it in assembly lube:

 Phone is acting really weird:

 Here's something strange with the water pump bolts: I ran them through a die to clean them up, and they all have a gash running across the threads. Before it was a solid mass like that's where the factory put the water sealant. Not sure if I need to replace them.

 

 All four water pump bolts and all seven balancer cover bolts - 3 long and 4 short. I cleaned them with soapy water and a brush after running them all through the die, then I dried them off, dipped the threads in clean oil, and stuck them in the box for painting.

Another shot of the balancer cover. I picked up the balancer installer (loaner) from Autozone. It was only $45 and I have 90 days to return it for a full refund. The book says to loosely attach the balancer cover so that when the balancer is installed, it can center properly in the seal. In other words, don't torque it down until the balancer is installed.

Oil Pan Prep 2

The stupid oil pan gasket comes in four pieces: two cork strips and two rubber semicircles. Looks like the consensus is to tie up the cork parts with floss or felpro snapups first, then install the rubber caps. According to the pictures from some Ford book I found on Google books, the cork goes in between the cap and the block. Of course you should also apply some sealer where the two gaskets meet.

Closeup of the money shot:

 

 This page from the Chilton's agrees:

Oil Pan Prep

One of the fun (not) things about the ford L6 250 is that the oil pan has to drop before you can remove the timing cover. I suppose I could've left it hanging there, but I felt I should clean up the pan and put in a new gasket. It's been 40 years, after all.

Anyway, here are some pictures of the pan cleanup process.

This is mean-ass, catpiss-smelling shit. Swish it around to mix it up before pouring. and DO_FUCKING_NOT get it on your skin. Wear gloves and goggles and all that. When using a brush, make sure the backspatter doesn't get on your fat little leg. Trust me on this.

Instructions say to pour it in a metal container for applyin'

Spread it on the filthy thing. My thought was that if it could take off paint, it could take off crud. I was right.

Magical.

 Filthy, filthy magic.

Nice to see that paint bubble up.

 Inside ain't that clean. Wonder what it'll do.

Not bad.

This was on the high edges of the pan, where the Krud Kutter didn't reach. It cut right through after 5 minutes.

Lookin' good.

 Got some nice Ford blue on these bad boys.